Lalibela is a majestic town in the hills of northern ethiopia that boasts churches from as early as the 4th century. 90% of it’s residents are orthodox christian. The views, the churches and the many worshippers are breathtaking. As this is more of a tourist destination than bahir dar, the locals are a bit more aggressive in setting up tours to churches and selling their wares. Still, not that many tourists.
I spent the the morning of the first day visitng the “cave church” which is built in a cave only a few minutes from the center of town. My companions were a pilot and a flight attendant from world-air doing a consulting gig for ethiopian airways. We were lucky enough to get to the church around prayer time. The local worhsippers chanted their amharek prayers passionately and some of the melodies didn’t sound unlike some of the melodies of hebrew prayers I grew up with. That said, seeing 100+ ethiopians dressed in their traditional white robes worshipping in a cave in northern ethiopia was a far cry from the big chapel at beth israel.
When I got back to the seven olives guest house there was a dutch couple that I was on the plane with from addis and they had just recounted the story to some brits about the american that deplaned in bahir dar (me) 30 seconds before I walked in. Very funny. We booked a trip to the kristos church (also in a cave) which is about 45km away. An hour later we were in a 1971 orange land rover headed through the ethiopian countryside. Lush green hills, waterfalls, raging streams and many farmers. Our driver was cool enough to let me drive for a bit and ride on the roof. Don’t ask, don’t get. Ahhaha. The highlight of this particular church was an out of ground “tomb” of mummified priests and pilgrims. Very “tales of the crypt”.
The last day was spent touring the main churches of lalibala which are enormous structures built into the mountain. These churches are rife with symbols that king lalibela brought from his trip to jerusalem in the 4th century. His intent was basically to create a “mini jeruslaem” so to speak, so that this worshippers wouldn’t have to schlep to the real deal. Pretty considerate of him, but god knows the amount of blood sweat and tears that went into the construction of these things.
Creepy yet cool highlight: there are hermits that live in these little portholes above the church that haven’t seen the light of day for up to 20 years. The priests feed them every couple of days and are sworn to secrecy as to their whereabouts.
Fell blessed that I got 7 days in Northern Ethiopia. I know it's a bit boring to read all of this without the pics, but broadband is $20 an hour and my pictures are pretty big. I will post them when I get to Israel. Leaving in about 6 hours....
And now a word from our sponsor:
Thank you again for the many emails expressing concern about my going to Israel. I too, have been watching the news and know what is going on there. I will be fine. I will hold back on my political perspective for now as well. Of course, still hoping that a cease-fire comes soon and that all of the nations at war will one day live in peace.
Addis Ababaly Yours,
G


